Day 29 Pitcairn Island

Pitcairn stamps

History
Pitcairn has a very chequered history. The 4.52 square kilometre island was first colonised by the Polynesians in the 11th century, however, Pitcairn is most famous for the mutiny on the British ship HMS Bounty, in 1788, involving Captain William Bligh, Fletcher Christian (an aristocrat, and distant relation of William Wordsworth), and the sailors on the Bounty (apparently a rough lot) together with a large number of uninhibited Tahitian women. It sounds a rather potent mix!

replica Bounty

The Bounty left England on two days before Christmas, 23rd December, 1787 tasked with collecting a cargo of breadfruit saplings, to take onto Jamaica. The saplings were to be planted in Jamaica to provide foood for the slaves working the plantations. It seems that after travelling over 43,000 kilometres, the crew decided to take an extended leave in Tahiti and revel in the the warm subtropical climate, the warm hospitality and the warmth of the beautiful Tahitian women. Stephen says it sounds like a perfect break!

Many of the men found Tahitian companions. Fletcher Christian fell deeply in love with Maimiti, a beautiful Tahitian woman whom he later married.

Early Pitcairn home

In early April, 1789, the Bounty set off on the second on the second leg of its journey, carrying a thousand breadfruit saplings. Near the island of Tonga, around three weeks later, the crew, led by first mate Fletcher Christian, staged a mutiny against Bligh, and tossed the Captain with eighteen of the crew still loyal to him
off the ship in a 7metre open boat. The crew said Bligh was a cruel and inhumane captain. It was true, but I also suspect they didn't want to leave their sybaritic life on Tahiti!

According to Captain Bligh's diary, the mutineers threw breadfruit after him as he was forced off the Bounty, and yelled, "There goes the Bounty bastard, breadfruit Bligh!"


Breadfruit
After the mutiny, Christian and his sailors returned to Tahiti, where sixteen of the twenty-five men decided to remain for good. Christian, along with eight others, their women, and a handful of Tahitian men then scoured the South Pacific for a safe haven, eventually settling on Pitcairn in January, 1790. They burned the ship, either to prevent anyone leaving, or to hide the evidence.The image is a replica.
What happened to Bligh? Miraculously, the Captain and his loyalists survived the seven-week, nearly 6,000km voyage in the cramped boat, and finally reached the island of Timor.
The mutineers who remained in Tahiti were found by a British ship and returned to England where seven were exonerated and three were hanged.

The British didn't find Pitcairn though, despite looking for three months, as they were using a map with faulty charting. The mutineers and Tahitians remained invisible to the world for eighteen years.However, the mutineers weren't a peaceful happy lot.When an American whaler discovered the island in 1808, murder and suicide had left eight of the nine mutineers dead.The last surviving mutineer, John Adams, became the leader and the colony flourished. Adamstown, the capital, is named after him.



Despite his former hard-drinking days and near illiteracy, Adams emphasized the importance of religion and education to the Bounty's second generation–which included Fletcher Christian's son, Thursday October Christian, the first child born on the island.

In 1825, a British ship arrived and formally granted Adams amnesty, and on 30 November, 1838, the Pitcairn Islands became part of the British Empire. But by 1855, the population had grown to an unsustainable 200, and Queen Victoria bequeathed them Norfolk Island, although it was thousands of miles to the west and a former penal colony (read my BLOG for the 28th).

On May 3, 1856, the entire population of 194 people reluctantly abandoned Pitcairn. Within 18 months, however, seventeen of the immigrants returned to Pitcairn, followed by another four families in 1864. Contemporary Norfolk has approximately 1000 Bounty descendants–about half its population–and celebrates Bounty Day (the day the Pitcairners first arrived) on June 8.



The current population of Pitcairn is 47, a small community directly descended from the mutineers and their Tahitian wives. They still bear the surnames of the original mutineers, and speak a dialect that is a hybrid of Tahitian and eighteenth-century English. They survive by subsistence farming, fishing, postage stamp sales and handicrafts which they sell to visitors and passing ships. Temperature is 12-32 degrees celsius and the currency is the NZ dollar.

How to get there:
By yacht
Cruise ship

Or, the Government’s dedicated passenger/shipping vessel, the Claymore II.

Get yourself to Tahiti. Book Air Tahiti domestic flights from Tahiti to Gambier airport (situated on a coral atoll) just off Mangareva. When you exit the airport you will take a 35 minute ferry ride across to Rikitea village and there, at the wharf you will find the Claymore II crew waiting for you. They will then transfer you and your luggage directly to the ship in their zodiac. You leave Mangareva for Pitcairn in the late afternoon, and arrive in Pitcairn two days later. The Longboat will be launched to pick you up and bring you into Bounty Bay.
Pitcairn Island Tourism is a good place to start for package holidays or free-travellers information.

What to do:
Fish, walk, dive, visit the museums, relax,

 talk to the locals,

 learn more about the history.

Day 28: Norfolk Island

Norfolk Island is an out of the way place,  a tiny 8km x 5km island located between Australia and New Zealand in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean. Kingston is the capital.

Less than 3 hours flying from Sydney, Brisbane or Auckland, the island boasts a pristine environment with beautiful beaches, a rugged coastline, World Heritage convict site, National Parks and Reserves dotted with the iconic Norfolk Island pines and  a sub-tropical climate.

Captain Cook described Norfolk Island as ‘paradise’.

Norfolk island is the only non-mainland Australian territory with its own democratically elected parliament.Sadly, the territory is bankrupt, and as I write,  a move by the Australian government to remove the island's self governance is being strenuously fought against by Norfolk's Chief Minister with the whole population behind him. Increasing tourism could help them retain their autonomy!
I think the Norfolk Island flag is very cool:

History

Another southern hemisphere spot where convicts had a really bad time. In fact, the most notorious of the Australian penal stations has long been represented as a ‘hell-on-earth’.
This is a great story:
When the first fleet arrived in Botany Bay, carrying 759  motley persons  Lieutenant Philip Gidley King was given the task of colonising Norfolk Island, and selected what he called "the best of a bad lot".  He chose six female and nine male convicts, and eight free men. They were aged between
 16 and 72.
The 72 year old, Richard Widdicombe, had been a farmer and had been  convicted for `stealing one wooden winch and other goods, value four guineas'. for that crime, he got 7 years transportation.
The 16 year old, a boy named Charles McLennan, had been given seven years for `stealing a bladder purse, value one penny, one gold half-guinea, one half-crown, and six pennies' when he was just 14.

So together, they were sent off to create a new territory. It was hard, horrible and all the stories. probably don't really do the convict's suffering justice.

Since 1856 it has been home to the descendants of the Bounty mutineers.

Read the whole fascinating history  HERE.

Population is just under 2,200. The sub-tropical climate is tempered by the surrounding sea. Average  temperatures range from 13C to  19C in winter and between 18C and  25C in summer. It can get down to 6C, although the last time was in 1953.

What to do, where to go:

If you are over 50, consider this holiday:Fun Over 50 Tour- it looks great! Departing from Brisbane on the 18th April, for 8 days, the itinerary covers pretty much everything you can do and see on the island.

And in March 2015, for history lovers, the 225th anniversary of the Sirius being shipwrecked is being celebrated. It looks to be a great trip and you can book it here: Sirius shipwreck anniversary tour

Lawn bowls and snooker or darts
Diving, snorkelling, fishing, windsurfing
Shooting, equestrian sports,
Golf and mini golf
Visit the museum

I found all these images in the web. thanks to the photographers for posting them and allowing me to use them.

Day 27: Tahiti

Very French. Very expensive. But there are bargains to be found, so don't despair.

An economy holiday in Tahiti is possible. So I thought I'd find one for you.

Lonely Planet has some great tips.  Actually, Lonely Planet's tips are so good, it's best if you just go there and read what they have to say, and today I'll just give you a few extra tips and some images to excite your imagination.

very not budget 

Expedia  has good last minute and bargain hunters sites, so check them out, and also Trivago, and Booking.com.

aren't these fish gorgeous

If you happen to be an Instagrammer, check out this story on Huffington Post   Have more than 10,000 instagrams and get free stays at a bunch of hotels.

with what you save on accommodation, you can buy this exquisite pearl

Or, try Tahiti Home Rentals, and live like a local. you can choose a villa, a house or a serviced apartment. You can get a one bedroom, sleep two condo for around 500 Euro a week. That's much smarter than a hotel.

Air BnB  has even better offers.


Eating cheaply but well:

Look out for the small supermarket over the road/down the road. You will find one. They will always have baguettes and cheese and saucisson.

Le Marche

Wander down the road until you can find a fruit and vegetable stall, piled with juicy pineapples, mangoes, pawpaws and limes, or go to Le Marche, the market in the centre of Papeete, right near the ferries to Moorea.

Les Roulottes

Make your way to Place Vaiete in Papeete, Place Vaiete is the home of Les Roulottes - dozens of small caravans which have been converted into kitchens that assemble every evening near the docks, with plastic tables, chairs and cutlery for the diners. You can buy crepes, or eat the way locals do - poisson cru - raw fish in coconut milk with cucumber, onion and lettuce; saumon des dieux, or salmon of the gods, a steaming mound of firm white fish accompanied by a big dipping bowl of barbecue sauce; steak and chips.

Day 26 Rarotonga, Cook Islands

Rarotonga

Indulge me. I'm imagining a day of a holiday in Rarotonga. Sunrise.

We wake  to the sound of waves gently landing on the beach right outside our luxury villa right on the beach. It's going to be a perfect day, warm, slight breeze to ruffle the bed hangings.

 Our breakfast is served on the deck. Glorious assortment of fresh fruit, beautifully prepared and presented. We decide what to do today. 

A little sailing on the clear blue waters.

Diving, to experience the coral and the creatures of the sea.

A light lunch somewhere.

A stroll along the beach to look at what's on.

 An afternoon snoozing and reading a book on the beach.

 Cocktails and dinner on our patio and a dreamless sleep.

Heaven.

Tomorrow might be quite different.









Shopping and exploring perhaps and renting a scooter.

You can plan your idyllic holiday in Rarotonga as well. There are loads of great websites to choose from, so I'll leave you to your dreaming and some fingerwalking over the keyboard.
Sweet dreams!

25 October Samoa

I first visited Samoa in 1980, but it hasn’t changed much really over the years. The population is around 190,000 and Samoa used to be under the care of New Zealand but has been independent since 1962.

When I was there, a plane came in twice a week to deliver and collect tourists, and drop off fresh food. Now there are flights every day from many destinations on Virgin Samoa, Air New Zealand, Polynesian Airlines, and Fiji Airways.
The Samoan Tourism Authority is a good place to start when looking for accommodation, package deals, and attractions.

You can stay deluxe, or at the other end of the scale, enjoy palm frond-roofed open beach fales
dotted around the islands' picturesque beaches. The fales don't have walls, so you have natural air-conditioning and the privilege to listen to the waves lapping at the shore, along with a mattress, sheet, mosquito net to keep unwanted visitors at bay and a refreshing cold-water shower nestled into the palm trees. Fales start around $70. An example of deluxe is Aggie Grey's Lagoon, Beach Resort and Spa nestled amongst 50 acres of tropical gardens and stunningly located on a stretch of white sand beach with a blue turquoise lagoon. This was one of the first sites where the Polynesian migrants landed when they set foot on the Samoa Islands some 2000 years ago.

Aggie Grey was born in Samoa (then Western Samoa) in 1897 and died in 1988. She was a well- known hotelier and founder of Aggie Greys hotel and resort in Apia Western Samoa. The original iconic Aggie Grey’s is presently undergoing a complete refurbishment following on from damage sustained by Tropical Cyclone Evan in December 2012. It is expected to reopen later in 2014, so I didn't include a photo. The old one was lovely.

Things to do:

Swim, snorkel, laze on the beaches.



Swim with turtles. Visit the markets for beautiful tropical fruits and fresh fish. Go fishing.

Explore rainforests, stand under waterfalls. There’s heap of walks to tempt you, from leisurely strolls to some hill climbing.

Or visit the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum. In 1889, Robert Louis Stevenson and his wife, Fanny bought 127 hectares (314 acres) of virgin land on the slopes of Mount Vaea above Apia and named the estate Vailima ("Five Waters")



because five streams crossed the property. They cleared an area of the land, and lived there in a small shack for nearly a year. The U.S. historian Henry Adams dropped in unannounced one day in 1890 and was appalled to find them dressed in lava-lavas and doing dirty work about their hovel. 

The following year they built the first part of their magnificent mansion. When it was completed, the big house had five bedrooms, a library, a ballroom large enough to accommodate 100 dancers, and the only fireplace in Samoa. 72 tons of furniture was shipped from England, then hauled 5km from Apia on sleds pulled by bullocks.

A piano sat in one corner of the great hall, in a glass case to protect it from Samoa's humidity. They brought with them a damask tablecloth from Queen Victoria, and a sugar bowl used by both Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott, as well as Stevenson’s prized Rodin nude, given by Rodin as a gift. In December 1886, RLS wrote to Rodin to tell him that the sculpture, “Le Printemps”, had arrived at Skerryvore, their English home in Dorset. Unfortunately it arrived with a broken arm and had to be repaired.







The Stevensons' lifestyle matched their surroundings. Oysters were shipped on ice from New Zealand, Bordeaux wine was brought by the cask from France and bottled at Vailima, and 1840 vintage Madeira was poured on special occasions. Now, instead of lava lava, they dressed formally for dinner every evening - except for their bare feet - and were served by Samoans dressed in tartan lava-lavas, in honour of the great author's Scottish origins.

Because of his wealth, the Samoans believed Stevenson to be a man of much mana,(power, authority, importance). He was a master at storytelling and took a keen interest in the Samoan stories and legends, as well as their customs, language, and politics. In appreciation for Stevenson’s support of the Samoan’s unsuccessful struggle against the Germans, they built a road from Apia to Vailima, After his death 1894, they cut the "Road of the Loving Hearts" to his grave on Mount Vaea overlooking Vailima. Stevenson's wife Fanny died in California in 1914 and her ashes were brought back to Vailima where they were buried at the foot of Robert's grave.


In 1990 and 1991, hurricanes severely damaged the mansion. Since then, a superb renovation has returned the house to its appearance when Stevenson lived here - although without the Rodin. I don’t know where that went…

Day 24 Noumea, New Caledonia

24 October:  New Caledonia - Noumea

For my birthday  a couple of years ago we had a week in Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia, a French  territory in the Pacific. Quite delicious! A multi-ethnic community, primarily French speaking, it is like a taste of France.

Did you know:

Captain Cook landed here in 1775 at a time when there were reportedly 70,000 Kanaks living in the archipelago, and gave the name "New Caledonia" to these islands, after Caledonia, the old name for Scotland.  New Caledonia was annexed to France in 1853, and became an overseas territory of France in 1956. 

The country makes its money from tourism and mining (nickel and cobalt).



The Kanaks are the indigenous Melanesian inhabitants of the country, and constitute around 40% of the population.

During World War 2, Nouméa served as the headquarters of the United States military in the South Pacific.

We went in July, when it wasn’t crowded and the weather was warm, but not too hot. Eight days is about right to shop, capture many of the tourists spots and relax on the beach.  Our hotel was out of the township itself in the area where most of the tourist hotels are sited.

view from our room at dusk

 It was about a six or seven km walk around the coastline into town, which we enjoyed and it was easy to catch a bus  from the Centre Ville back out, as it stopped right outside our hotel. We tend to walk a lot anyway, and it was a nice way to experience the town with a slight breeze and lots of places to stop for a coffee or an ice cream.

There is so much to look and and enjoy. I loved this stained glass window at the Cathedral Saint Joseph, and the statue of Joan d'Arc outside, looking a little the worse for wear.

If walking isn’t your thing, the Le Petit Train, an open air motorised train can whizz you around. It’s very relaxed. We only ate at the hotel once, as we wanted to try all the local places. The food is as you would expect, very good, with an emphasis on fish and sea food.

The City of Noumea museum has a lot of history about the area, and the Kanaks, and we spent hours there, totally  fascinated. Stephen found a really funny typo (typical! for him!) on one of the exhibits that we laughed ourselves silly over. It must have been there for years and years and no one had picked it up. See if you can spot it:

Hint: this year is 2014 AD

 The Museum of New Caledonia and the  is also well worth a visit, and you can see ancient Lapita potteries dating back to 1500 BC. Unfortunately, after walking all the way down to the Maritime Museum we found it closed when we were there. It could well be open again now. However, there was a great kitchen shop not far away and I bought loads of great gifts at excellent prices!

We wandered the Botanical Gardens and the Zoo, enjoying the birdlife, animals, blue butterflies,  and stunning flowers.

We recommend a day trip  via one of the local operators to  Anse Vata, and experience the multi coloured fish in a flat bottomed boat,  try snorkelling, a native banquet, climb the lighthouse for amazing views,  and laze around on the beach. We shared the day with a group of the city’s gendarme! They were having such fun. Take a look at some of my photos:

a chap swimming under our boat!

looking up to the top of the lighthouse inside.

Gendarme on their day off!

view from the top of the lighthouse

At the end of a wonderful day of sailing, snorkelling, swimming, walking the island, climbing all the stairs to the lighthouse, enjoying the feast and the dancing put on for us, we came back into the port and saw this view. It epitomises Noumea for me, a glorious spot and a holiday to remember.