Friday 31 October 2014

New Zealand: Taupo Waipahihi Botanical Reserve and Mini Golf





We are in Whakatane today; the sun is shining and there isn't a cloud in the sky. But I wanted to share my photos of the beautiful Reserve in Taupo. It was established in 1966, and is filled with native and introduced trees and plants beautifully maintained by maintained by a big team of volunteers. The camellias are just finishing and the rhododendron are spectacular. We walked around the main route and diverted through several of the bush walks. I kept stopping to take photos, and we met three young women from Sweden, Germany and New York holidaying in NZ on their gap year, looking for a place to have a picnic; some young mothers walking their babes in pushchairs and quite a few runners.

Here we are with a stunning red rhodo as background.

I don't know the names of the rhododendrons - maybe one/some of our readers will recognise them.




view from a great picnic spot

We came around a corner on the walk and this was the view. Sunlight sparkling on Lake Taupo.







The camellia tree was almost finished for the spring and I spent a while finding one that hadn't started to go brown.

And then I came across this lovely pieris.
























There's a bumblebee in the centre of one of the flowers!



















Most of the azaleas were past their best, but this one shone in the sunshine



Way in the distance down the lake are the three big mountains - Ruapehu, Ngarahoe and Tongariro.

These are Ruapehu top, and Ngarahoe below.





We love mini golf, and any visit to Taupo requires several games and some grudge matches! The mini golf course is beautiful, just like a manicured garden.



Fionmna with her whole in one




And Stephen got a hole in one as well! Here he is celebrating.













Thursday 30 October 2014

Day 31. The last in the series of Feature Down Under: Chatham Islands


 We have really enjoyed putting together this month's programme, and hope that you have found it interesting and informative. We are taking a short break, as right now we are on holiday in Taupo, and will resume our features in a few days. There was so much more to show you that we have decided to do a story on the Auckland Islands, the Galapagos, Hawaii, and several more islands. There will be more on gardens to visit (the botanical reserve here in Taupo is stunning, planted and maintained by volunteers for many years), a big series on South America, the parts of Australia we couldn't fit in this month, and Fionna's pilgrimage through Spain on the Via de la Plata, the Silver route, which goes from Seville to Santiago de Compostela. In the northern spring next year we are working on a project in Spain, which we are very excited about.
But, back to today's story...

The Chatham Islands are the furthest south in the Pacific in this series.
They form an archipelago in the Pacific Ocean about 680 kilometres consisting of ten islands within a 40-kilometre radius, the largest of which are Chatham Island and Pitt Island.

 The nearest mainland New Zealand point to the Chatham Islands is 650 km away, at Cape Turnagain in the north Island. Hastings is the nearest city on the mainland, 697 kilometres to the North-West. The islands cover a total of 966 square kilometres, almost all of which is in the two main islands.

The archipelago is called Rekohu ("misty sun") in the indigenous language  Moriori, and Wharekauri in Maori . It has officially been part of New Zealand since 1842, and includes the country's easternmost point, the Forty Fours.
You can read the history of the Chathams HERE.


What to do:

Seek out the Rakau Momori (meaning psalm or memory tree) bark carvings.
These carvings were made on Kopi trees, Corynocarpus laevigatus, called karaka in New Zealand, over 200 years ago. Every glyph is different and unique and is dedicated to a specific ancestor or spiritual deity. In the 1950s, 1145 glyphs were recorded. However because of forest destruction today there are in all only 150 kopi trees remaining that bear living carvings. There are also about 30 examples in museums worldwide.

Go to the museum.
Chatham Island  museum is where an old RNZ  Air Force Sunderland flying boat is being restored.  In 1959 it struck submerged rocks whilst taxying, and sank in shallow water after landing on the Te Whanga Lagoon at the Chathams.When I was very little (18 months old, to be precise) I flew on a Sunderland from Tauranga to Wellington. Unfortunately I don't remember a thing about it! It was certainly a big deal. The photos my mother had showed everyone dressed in their best for the flight.

NZ Civic Air  blog has some great photos - here is one of them. Thanks to Marty Flanagan for the image.


Take any number of walks on the 100,000 hectare island.
Formed from volcanic activity 65 million years ago the Chatham Islands endemic flora and fauna has evolved unqiue adaptations that make a visit to the islands a must for ornithologists, natural historians, photographers and artists. The coastline teems with marine and bird life.






Visit volcanic outcrops, sand dunes, lagoons and peat bogs, and see for yourself the unique flora and fauna.
Weka



Walks include:

Waitangi Bay Beach

This is a 6km beach walk from Waitangi to Red Bluff and can be undertaken in any tide (except high seas).
Highlights: sea birds, including giant petrels and Chatham Island oystercatcher

Thomas Mohi Tuuta (Rangaika) Scenic Reserve and Cliffs

Chatham Island Snipe
The Rangaika Scenic Reserve, managed by the Department of Conservation, has a number of bush walks and is located next to the privately owned Rangatika Cliffs. These cliffs enable a view, on a clear day, of both Pitt and the Pinnacle islands.

Ocean Mail Scenic Reserve


The Ocean Mail Scenic reserve is situated 12 km from the Wharekauri turn off and is set in 831 ha of peat dome and wetland. Located north of Te Whanga Lagoon, the walk enables amazing beach and ocean vistas.


The reserve is part of a Department of Conservation and community group funded regeneration project and vistors are asked to take care walking onto the beach as the dune edge is eroding.
After the walk drive a further 4 km along the main road to the J.M. Barker (Hapupu) National Historic Reserve and a further 6km to Kaingaroa.
Highlights: Ocean and beach views

Henga Scenic Reserve

The loop walk features limestone outcrops, regenerating kopi (karaka) and mahoe bush, unique sand dune flora and spectacular views over Petre Bay.

The 170 ha reserve is situated on the North road, the track begins by the Henga Scenic Reserve sign on the roadside approximately 15 minutes drive from Waitangi.  There is also an option to walk from Henga Lodge which is on private land and a fee is required.It takes about 45 minutes to reach the limestone outcrops and sand dunes and there is regenerating bush on the return part of the walk. A shorter 30 minute bush walk can also be completed.
Highlights: limestone outcrops, sand dune endemic plants, and views over Petre Bay.

J.M. Barker (Hapupu) National Historic Reserve

Featuring  Moriori rakau momori (or tree carvings) this ten minute bush walk through mature kopi forest is a must for every visitor and is located only 6 km from Kaiangaroa.
Hapupu-J.M.Barker National Historic Reserve is one of only two New Zealand historic reserves and features Rakau momori carved into the trunks of many mature kopi trees.

Highlights: Moriori rakau momori (or tree carvings)

Nikau Bush Conservation Area

Chatham Island Forget-me-not
The Nikau Bush conservation area consists of 19 ha of lowland regenerating broadleaved forest.
This peaceful track has a nikau palm canopy and regenerating bush that open into forest glades.  In December and January the nikau palm is in bloom.
Highlights: Flowering Nikau Palm (Dec/Jan) and regenerating bush

You can also take guided tours to sites of interest.

Accommodation:
Book accommodation and tours at Discover the Chathams. The island has a range of comfortable accommodation options - Two Hotels, Six rural accommodations, Three B&B's, Four Homestays,  Two motels, Seven Farmstays, and Beach and Lookout Back Packers.

I've showcased just a couple of the accommodation options:
Awarakau Farmstays 

on a working farm just metres from the sea.



Chathams Hotel

Henga Lodge offers comfortable, quality accommodation with Hotel, Motel, Bed & Breakfast, Homestay and Lodge options available and is ideal for family holidays, group bookings or restful retreats.  Owned and operated by Hokotehi Moriori Trust, the organisation that represents the Moriori people, visitors will be treated to all that Rekohu (Moriori for “Chathams”) has to offer with the added attraction of authentic, cultural experiences including a visit to the architecturally famous and stunning Kopinga Marae.

Flowerpot Lodge on Pitt Island is brand new and looks great. Check out these  Images.

Be sure to book BEFORE you travel.



How to get there:
Fly on Chathams Air: The flight time is around 90 minutes in a Convair 580 aircraft and light refreshments are served during the flight. Check-in is located at the Air New Zealand terminals to locate your check-in gate enquire at the  Air New Zealand information desk.

Sail with Chatham Islands Shipping Limited: the ship leaves  every 10 -12 days, the trips takes approximately 2 days and offers a one way service of 2 berths (1 cabin) between Napier or Timaru to Waitangi with all bedding and meals supplied.

Wednesday 29 October 2014

Day 30: Kiribati, Tuvalu and Kirimati

Feature Down Under 30th October.
The three island groups (33 islands in total) of Kiribati, Tuvalu and Kirimati were formerly known as the Gilbert and Ellice Islands and Christmas Island. They are scattered over millions of square kilometers of the central Pacific Ocean, with a total land area of about 736 square kilometers.
Christmas Island
Kirimati accounts for about 48 percent of this land area. Banaba is a raised limestone island, but the other islands are all coral atolls,  rising less than four metres above sea level, raising concerns over rising sea levels as a result of global warming. Most of the coral atolls have lagoons.The thin alkaline soils are extremely infertile, and there is no fresh surface water. The average daily temperature varies only slightly around 28 degrees Celsius.



History
In Pacific Island legend,  the Turtle and Spider  were land gods who gods originally created the universe. Other myth says they taken over by the Eel and Stingray gods, who then created the universe.

Traditional legend say the spirits moved from Samoa to the Gilbert Islands and became half human and half spirit. Much later they changed into human beings, and many Kiribati believe their ancestors to be spirits, some from Samoa, and some from the Gilberts. Kiribati are known indigenously as “Tungaru”.
By the way, eatingTurtles is forbidden.

Some evidence now points to migration from Southeast Asia/Indonesia area into the Pacific around 3000 years ago, rather than between 200 and 500AD when Micronesians arrived.

In more recent history, whalers, slave traders and merchant vessels began arriving in the 16th century, and good old Captain Cook turned up to find and name Christmas Island in December 1777. I wonder if he ever went home! 
In 1892, Kiribati became a British Protectorate, then in 1916 the Ellice Islands were combined with the Gilbert Islands to form the Gilbert & Ellice Islands Colony, which also included Fanning and Washington islands. 
Robert Louis Stevenson sailing to Kiribati
Another person who got about the Pacific was Robert Louis Stevenson, and in 1889, after spending time in Hawaii and Tahiti, he stopped off for another holiday on the Kiribati atolls of Abemama and Butaritari, part of the Gilbert group before heading to Samoa in 1890. Read our Day 25 blog on Samoa for more of R L Stevenson.
Japanese gun emplacements

Japan seized some of the islands to form part of their defenses during World War II resulting in a series of  bloody battles on the Gilbert Islands between the American and Japanese forces. Tarawa, on the islet of Betio,  suffered the most. Other islands and atolls also experienced heavy engagements between Japanese and Americans Marines. World War II artefacts can still found today on Tarawa, Butaritari and Abemama. Kiribati had further military involvement in the 1950's and 1960's, and sadly, Christmas Island served as a base for early nuclear testing.  Read The World at War (available on Amazon) for more information.
Did you know:
Kiribati Parliament
Prior to 1995, western Kiribati was 22 hours ahead of eastern Kiribati, which must have been a bit of a nuisance sometimes, but then, if you were having a birthday you could get two celebrations in! anyway, Kiribati moved the International Date Line, so that the entire country could be on the same day at the same time (maybe to stop the double birthday thing!), and so on 1 January 2000, Kiribati was the first nation to see the new millennium. Until I researched the Gilbert and Ellice Islands for this blog, I had always thought NZ was the first to see the sun rise on the millennium. Bit disappointing really, we Kiwis love being first at something...

The native pronunciation of Gilberts is Kiribati  - kee-ree-bus, and Christmas Island, Kirimati is kee-ree-mus

How to get there


Sea: Supply ships occasionally go to Tuvalu. Contact the operations manager at Kiribati Shipping Services for prices and information about any planned departures. I'm not sure how comfortable they are.

Tarawa, Christmas and Fanning Islands are currently the only islands in Kiribati with formal harbour dues and all are ports of entry for yachts; island councils elsewhere may charge a fee. Tarawa, Fanning and some of the outer Gilberts have good channels and harbour facilities.

Air: Only Tarawa and Christmas Island are serviced by international flights.
to get to Kiritimati (Christmas) Island - fly from Nadi, Fiji:
Nadi to Kiritimati (Christmas) Island departsTuesdays at 11.59pm and arrives at Kiritimati at 6.35am on Wednesday, giving you a full day of fishing.
Flights return to Nadi the following Wednesday, departing Kiritimati at 4pm and arriving Nadi at 6.40pm the same day.

The flight schedule from Honolulu:
Departs from Honolulu at 11.59am on Tuesdays, arriving on Kiritimati at 3pm on Wednesday.
The return flight departs at 7.35am on Wednesday and arrives back in Honolulu at 10.35 on Tuesday.

Tarawa is serviced twice out of Fiji by Air Pacific. Flights depart from Nadi on Mondays and Thursdays and take 3 hours. Air Pacific codes shares with Qantas and Cathay Pacific with connection availabe from Australia, New Zealand, United States and now from Europe through Hong Kong. For more information on flights and scheduling contact Air Pacific.

Remember to note the date line changes when you are booking!
What to do on the Islands:
 Kiribati tourism is a great site to read. Lonely Planet has a guide, of course, as do several other blogs and websites, so I won't repeat the same information.

You can rent cars, motorbikes and scooters to get around the islands, and there are float planes, and boats to go between islands.
Christmas Island endangered Booby

Fishing, birdwatching, surfing, exploring WWII remnants, tours, scuba/ free diving, snorkelling and swimming, cultural experiences and outdoor adventures.


You can even dive in the lagoon on Betio to explore underwater wreckage of WWII Battle of Tarawa.

Accommodation
George Hotel
Check out: Booking.com  and Trip Advisor for Christmas Island and Gilbert and Ellice Islands accommodation.

Accommodation rates generally range between $30 - $120 per person, with discounts being offered for stays longer than one week.
Christmas Island Owl
Tour packages are available on Kiribati Tourism,  Transpacific Holidays   and other online sites.


Currency: Use Australian dollars.